A Travellerspoint blog


Road signs, wildlife and a few 'lols' along the way...

A summary of our tour down under

So that's our Aussie adventure done, and what a fantastic experience it's been. Two months and six states later we've still barely scratched the surface of this enormous country. Even now, its vastness is hard to compute.

We broke our time in Australia into the following parts:

  • Road trip 1 - Queensland: Cairns to Brisbane
  • New South Wales: Sydney
  • Road trip 2 - Western Australia: Perth to Perth south west loop
  • Northern Territory: The red centre
  • Road trip 3 - South Australia & Victoria: Adelaide to Melbourne

The standout highlights for us were Western Australia and Adelaide & South Australia. The beaches in WA were like nothing we've ever seen, and trounced over even Caribbean sands. It was also really great to reconnect with my cousin, Lynn, for the first time in two decades. Adelaide was our kind of place and we'd heartily recommend it to anyone. I hope we get to go back some day.

Queensland was perhaps our biggest disappointment. Other than our wonderful Christmas stay in Marcoola on the Sunshine Coast and Fraser Island, much of this section was quite average and we didn't really rate many of the towns along the way. And of course we had that very unpleasant experience in the Whitsundays... shudder!

Sydney was fun and the city's New Year's Eve firework display was nothing short of spectacular, but we were also ready to leave the city after our six nights there.

The red centre provided a totally unique landscape, and yes... the earth really is that red/orange. Uluru has a special quality but we won't be rushing back to Alice Springs - what a dump!

And finally Melbourne and visiting beautiful Burtie. A fabulous city to end our trip and we had a few leisurely days enjoying the city's highlights.

The best and worst of Australia? Here's a top 10 of the good and the bad in no particular order...

  • Flies

Urgh. A real pain and a big drawback when the summer heat blows in. A fly net is a must buy!

  • People

Aussies are an optimistic, friendly bunch who don't seem to take life too seriously. It feels like a land of hope and opportunities. I'll throw service in here too - noticeably friendlier and more helpful on average than in the UK. Their TV is hilarious, so un-PC it's hysterical.

  • Heat

When a heatwave hits, you know about it. Anything above about 37c and we faded fast. Brits might get rained/snowed in in the winter, but equally on the hottest days of summer Aussies are trapped inside too.

  • Wine

Oh my... we love a good Aussie red and boy were we in for a treat. South Australia's McLaren Vale was like we'd died and gone to heaven. In our opinion the best shiraz (our) money can buy. We also had fun in Margaret River's wineries.

  • Cost

Not so good for the flailing pound against a strong AU dollar. Right now it's not a cheap place to visit for Brits and we went £2k over budget. Ouch. Damn those expensive reds!

  • Cities

With thriving arts scenes, cafe cultures, shining skyscrapers and gorgeous parks, Australian cities are far from grim and dirty. This description could be applied to any of the cities we visited, with Adelaide and Melbourne our pick.

  • Social problems

Unless you've been to Australia, it's hard to write this without sounding like a white supremecist... but Australia has a significant social issue with its indiginous population. Frankly, their culture and our western culture just don't mix. There are serious drug, health, alcohol and unemployment problems and you see a LOT of aboriginees just sat under trees and in parks drinking. It's a bit unsettling.

  • Food

It's generally excellent, or at least the produce is - we did have a few duff meals along the way - but the quality of red meat and fruit and veggies is top notch.

  • Wifi

The cities were ok, but we were amazed just how difficult it was to get decent connectivity. Asia was a breeze by comparison.

  • Road trips

Without doubt the best way to see the country and be staggered at the 'nothingness' en route. We also had a bit of fun along the way 'collecting' the iconic animal road signs...


And a few others... mostly about not dying...


On the road we spotted a few 'lols' worthy of a snap...


Some mailboxes...

My favourite

Trying to 'do a Paul Hogan' on a cow. Little success.



And last but certainly not least, Australia's wildlife was an endless source of fascination.

In terms of deadly things, we didn't see one snake on our travels and only encountered a couple of red back spiders. We saw a couple of other crawlies such as a scorpion in camp and a centipede which gives a nasty bite. I spotted a shark whilst diving, but not one which was likely to bother a human.

We couldn't/didn't capture everything we saw and much of the time photo opportunities were fleeting or far away. But here's a selection of the weird and the mostly wonderful that we did see...

Wild horses in the outback

A turtle!

A wallaby


Here come the birds...


Posted by Galavantie 12:57 Archived in Australia Comments (1)

Melting in Melbourne

sunny 38 °C

As cities go, Melbourne is up there and, in our opinion, is Australia's finest city.

But... before we got to the centre, we had a little 'errand' to run - to find a suburb of Melbourne called Toorak. Before leaving for our trip, we used to live in a beautiful Victorian block called Toorak, which was named after the Australian one... so we just had to pay a visit. Turns out it's a fairly swanky inner suburb with boutique shops, cafés and spas and the name is plastered everywhere! Ahhhhh...


We stayed in a cool airbnb pad right in the centre of South Bank, close to the river and the action. Melbourne has a thriving arts scene, probably the most alternative edge of all Australia's cities and city suits happily co-exist with a grungier crowd. There are hip bars, quirky coffee shops, stunning Victorian arcades, breezy parks and restaurants for every taste and budget.

Buildings showing the quirky side to Melbourne

The arts centre

We had a fabulous few days exploring all it has to offer. We love wandering around a new city, unfortunately for us there was a poorly timed hot spell (38c) for most of our stay which meant we had to resort to buses and crawling into air conditioned spaces, red-faced and panting!

On the upshot, there's plenty to do in Melbourne inside and we checked out all the old arcades, some art galleries and... of course a bar or two...



Melbourne is famed for its laneways, offering cute and diverse drinking and dining options... some little more than a tiny shop with a few chairs spilling onto the street.


The one thing we were a little disappointed with was street art. The various sculptures you spot around town are great, but the streets famed for their art were a bit of a let down. They were so condensed with graffitti art, the lanes just looked shabby and run down.


Some were better than others...


We browsed the Queen Victoria Market which has a great selection of produce, in particular mouth-watering delicatessans and fresh fish and meat stalls.


A great thing about Australian summers are the open-air cinemas they put on in the city parks. We took the chance to try one out in Melbourne seeing as they were screening something we wanted to see - The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. We took a bottle of red and enjoyed the experience... it was especially weird, beyond the large screen, to see large fruit bats circling a distant lit tower, like a surreal Gotham City...


A highlight was the Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI) which was interactive and a worthwhile hour or two.


We also checked out the National Gallery of Victoria (NGV) which had some good stuff on display. A brilliantly executed piece was 'don't worry', with each letter painstakingly carved with details depicting key events from the artist's journey into adulthood. It wasn't always clear what those events were as each letter seemed to tell of a non-descript epic struggle... but a collison with drugs at some point was an obvious one.

Testing Grounds - a kooky art/drinking space. Very Melbourne.

We were hoping to meet up with Charlotte but unfortunately she did her Scarlet Pimpernel thing and, despite a few excited emails back and forth about meeting up, she didn't surface. We put it down to the heatwave, but we were left in the dark about her reasons for not making an appearance. That, coupled with the intense city heat, left us feeling a bit flat on our last night in the city... but we stumbled upon the Italian quarter and after a great pizza and a few vinos, the evening improved no end.

We were really sad to be leaving Australia. After a few early disappointments, we've experienced some great highs. It's an amazing, epic country and we've had an absolute ball travelling around its different states.

However, we couldn't stay sad for long as New Zealand was up next, and one of the most anticipated parts of our entire trip!

Posted by Galavantie 22:46 Archived in Australia Comments (0)

Mornington Peninsula

sunny 26 °C

It was then the final few kilometres to the city and a juggle of rental cars... at one stage we had two... a small runaround which Ant drove, me in convoy in the camper until we were able to drop it off!

We bypassed the city to head out to the Mornington Peninsula, an idyllic headland east of the city full of cute beachside settlements, rolling hills and wineries. It has more than an air of England about it.

One of my oldest and dearest friends, Burtie Buttocks (ok, real name Andrea), lives in Mount Eliza with her Aussie husband, Steve, and three gorgeous kids. We've been friends since the age of 7... lordy... where does it go?!

We stayed with them for 4 nights and have to say we were pretty lazy. We've been on the go so much that I don't think either of us put up a fight for long lie-ins and the chance to do very little. We did venture out for a long lunch with fellow traveller, Blair, who we met on our first month long Indochina tour. He's been in this part of the world for 3 months living with relatives. Great to catch up and share stories! We had a pootle around the pretty coastline and dropped into one winery.


Other than that it was a chance to enjoy their pool (and one evening a possum came to take a drink from the pool whilst we were in it!), spend some time with Burtie, sort our bags out... that sort of thing. Ant cooked his devilled chicken dish (which Jinzi will know well!) and I whisked up my infamous meringues with still warm eggs from the chooks in the garden!

I felt for Ant a bit when me and my chum had the inevitable trip down numerous memory lanes... oooh do you remember him... wonder what she's doing now... oh she had four kids by 20... remember that party when we... ok, I'll leave it there... ;)

So lovely to catch up, so many fond memories from 35 years. Love ya xxx

Posted by Galavantie 13:22 Archived in Australia Comments (1)

The Great Ocean Road

sunny 25 °C

We had a final push for the Great Ocean Road which officially starts just after Warrnambool, if you're travelling from Adelaide.


So what can I tell you about this famed road, billed as one of the world's greatest drives... well, it's 163 miles long, was built by 3,000 returned servicemen from WWI as both a memorial to those lost and to provide mateship work for those who returned. The back-breaking work started in 1919 and the road was complete by 1932.

It offers stunning vistas of sea-shaped cliffs and stacks, sweeping bays, beautiful cool rainforests, fern gullys, waterfalls, rolling hills, seaside towns and world class surf. Torquay, at the other end of the Great Ocean Road and known as Australia's 'capital of surf', is where two huge surf brands... Rip Curl and Quiksilver started up.

I've broken the trip out into three distinct parts - the Shipwreck Coast, Falls & Forests and Lighthouses & Surf.

The Shipwreck Coast
Driving east, this stretch was first up. Its name due to the fact that over 200 ships were claimed by this perilous coastline between 1830 and 1930.

The main lookouts and points of interest are all clearly marked and we were able to see the Bay of Islands, Martyrs Bay and The Grotto before getting to our campsite in Princetown.


The campsite was picturesque with an elevated view over a meandering river and a field of 'roos. Super quiet too... just how we like it. :)


There were yellow-tailed black cockatoos in the trees and blue wrens darting in and out of the hedgerow. A nearby boardwalk which took us out to the river and closer to the roos made for a lovely evening stroll. Lovin' this campervan melarky.

Our van can be spotted - the middle and smaller one of the three


The next day was cooler by about 18 degrees! Bizarre eh. There's such extremes here - if there's a north wind blowing from the outback then it's roasting and if the wind direction switches from the south (Antarctic) then of course it's pretty nippy. Melbourne is renowned for experiencing the oft quoted 'four seasons in one day'.

We completed the main sites along Shipwreck Coast...

Gibson's Steps

Twelve Apostles

Loch Ard Gorge

Thunder Cave

The Arch

London Bridge

Other lookout points on the coast

I'd seen most of these before when I came to Oz in 2009 and did this stretch on a backpacker tour... but as it was a different season it was still good to see everything in another light... and of course to share the experience with Cookie!

We hoped for a good sunset at the Twelve Apostles but it didn't really get going. Still, got some nice pics as the light faded on the stacks.

A rare photo of us minus the sunglasses. We also had to wrap up warm, there was a really cold wind!


Well there's one thing definitely to be said about this campervan experience... variable sleeping conditions. The second night in the campsite was ffffffreezing! It got down to about 8c and I went to bed with three layers on and still couldn't get warm.

We woke up around 6am probably because our bones had fused in the cold or something... but on the plus side it was quite special to see the early morning mist on the river.

Falls & Forests
Most people power through the GOR in 2-3 days, some even as a day trip from Melbourne, but we had given ourselves plenty of time for a leisurely schedule. This allowed us to head inland and explore some of the other treasures which many tourists don't see.

We discovered a gourmet food trail which took in artisan goodies and local produce such as ice-cream (best ever!), beers, cheeses, chocolates and a berry farm producing strawberries. Not good for our ever-increasing waistlines. We seem to be eating and drinking our way around the world, ah well. Friends may not recognise us on our return home...

Our gourmet booty!

We continued on to discover the walks and waterfalls of Great Otway National Park... and to find the cute little grey fellas up in the trees.

Triplet Falls is the more visited and talked about of the national park's waterfalls, but we much preferred Beauchamp Falls which was both a nicer rainforest walk to get to and more beautiful (in our opinion).

Triplet Falls and walk

Beauchamp Falls

Erskine Falls was the busiest of the waterfalls we'd been to and was probably the least impressive.

The loop we took in the camper took us on Wild Dog Road which was both breathtaking and terrifying (well, if you're like me and don't have a head for heights). The narrow twisty road was so high looking down on the deep valleys below and there were very few barriers. Just us and the endless sheer drop bends. We also had the added frisson of having a lowish fuel guage and were trying to calculate how far it would get us and how many k's to the next town. Cripes. I was like a coiled spring.

It was time for some koala spotting. They're not widespread across Australia and there are only a few (albeit large) pockets across some of the States where you can see them. We even got lucky and saw one running along the ground which is probably a fairly uncommon sight. They're surprisingly speedy considering the rest of the time they're slumped in a comatosed fashion from all the munched eucalypt leaves.

Eerie dead tree forest - complete with one koala

Lighthouses & Surf
We paid for entry to Cape Otway's Lighthouse and braved the blustery top for fabulous views.


We passed through Lorne, one of the larger tourist places along the GOR. We didn't stop for too long as the town didn't look that appealing (busy, touristy, not much character) so we just picked out a great viewpoint, Teddy's Lookout.


We stopped at Split Point Lighthouse for a walk around the base and headland it's located on, and couldn't resist a cream tea in a cute tearoom nearby.

Bells Beach of Point Break fame with a sea mist rolling in

General views from the Great Ocean Road...


As it was a Saturday and we were nearing Melbourne, the GOR was quite busy and campsites were looking chocker. We couldn't face the thought of one rammed with tonnes of families so we headed out to the one furthest away from the main tourist spots. The goods news... it was peaceful and out of the way... the bad news... it was more of a trailer park with mostly permanent residencies which had seen better days. Camping options have definitely got worse on the east side of the GOR... for what we were looking for anyway. And to rub salt in, they were more expensive the closer we were to Melbourne.

We consoled ourselves with fish & chips in Torquay (sounds rather British eh) and enjoyed a great view of the beach and sunset from the campervan.


Great Ocean Road - done!

Posted by Galavantie 19:20 Archived in Australia Comments (0)

Australia road trip #3 - getting to the Great Ocean Road!

Leaving Adelaide to drive east...

sunny 32 °C

We picked up our home for the next 8 nights... our wee campervan!

Although road trip number 3 - Adelaide to Melbourne - doesn't compete with the first two in terms of mileage, it does take in one of the world's greatest drives... the Great Ocean Road.

This section was also more about the journey itself than the end destination each day. Because we were campervanning and staying in camping sites, our destination for each day wasn't fixed. This bit was about rocking up somewhere at the end of the day, and this depended entirely on how far we'd managed to get and how much there was to see along the way.

Off we set, soon into the Adelaide Hills from the city centre. We stopped at Hahndorf, an early German settlement, which sounded great in the tourist bumph. It was bloody awful. So touristy and busy. It probably didn't help that it was a Saturday and the day before Australia Day...

Here we go again!


We didn't hang about, and back on the road the landscape soon became very barren and flat.


Ant spotted some pelicans on a lake so we pulled over for a closer look - the first ones we'd seen on our travels.


We found a great campsite right on Lake Albert in a small place called Meningie, and settled in to our first evening and night in the camper. We cracked open one of the McLaren Vale reds!


It got quite chilly at night but before hunkering down, we walked to the lake's edge and admired the night sky, spotting a couple of shooting stars.

Australia Day!
Apparently it's an Aussie institution to listen to the radio station 'Triple J' and their hottest 100 which plays for most of the day. When in Rome, we thought... but after not recognising the first 5 songs coupled with bad radio reception, we quickly gave up on that one.

As we were driving we thought there were mini dust storms on the side of the road, until we realised it was clouds of midgies. The fly nets came in handy for our first stop, Jack's Point - a pelican look out and salt flat. It was pretty hot, with loads of flies and the midgies (which sounded like high speed motorbikes when we walked through them!).


Cape Jaffa was our lunch stop and stroll along the rickety looking jetty.

A weird large lobster en route

Beachport was another stop, a busier seaside spot which had some live music going on and a bit of a buzz to the place. Tonnes of Australian flags everywhere so I thought I'd get in on the action... and Golden Gaytimes are divine!!


We didn't get as far down the coast as we would've liked, but the upshot was finding a fantastic campsite in the small town of Millicent.

It was super quiet and we had pick of the sites... I bloody love this big country with its tiny population... so we chose a spot with an amazing view towards distant hills. Out came the chairs and beers to kick back for an hour or two, watching the Galahs (grey and pink parrots) in the trees and enjoying the view.


Ant cooked up some steaks and veggies on the site's hot plates... we needed a good meal inside us... turned out to be quite a chilly night in the ol' camper...

We'd read about Mount Gambier's Blue Lake but weren't quite prepared for just how blue it really was. Anyone familiar with Dorset's Blue Pool near Corfe will know it doesn't always deliver on its promise... and to be fair neither does Mt Gambier's as it's grey in winter. But, being summer, it was a shimmering brilliant blue and just made us want to dive in as the day was already ramping up to be a hot one.


Mount Gambier is also home to the Umpherston Sinkhole - a collapsed cave which has become rich ground for all manner of flora. Particularly impressive was a curtain of vines hanging over the edge. There was a warning sign for bees and we spotted a hive so didn't venture too far in... but on the way out were rewarded with a close encounter with a possum... very cute!


The small estuary hamlet of Nelson made for another great lunch stop and we had a walk along the estuary beach to the ocean. We loved being able to pull over anywhere we fancied for a brew or a quick snack... tonnes of freedom... kings of the road! Ha ha.

Our first State crossing by road

Ant has done all the driving in Oz so far, he enjoys doing it and I prefer being a passenger, but I took the opportunity to drive the van for a bit to give him a break.


We ended up in Port Fairy for one night in a decidedly average campsite and there were quite a few kids circling the pitches on their bikes so it wasn't as peaceful. We cracked open the other bottle of red we bought on the wineries tour... the £20 one... to go with our chilli. Who says you can't enjoy the finer things whilst camping?!

We awoke like sausages cooking on gas mark 5. Who turned the temperature up? It had been a much warmer night and by 8am the van - and its contents - were roasting. We've found the Aussie weather to be completely bonkers and it can be hugely changeable. We've been lucky and missed several heatwaves as they've swept around different parts of the country and on the whole it's been quite temperate. But it's amazing how, in the same location, one day it can be 21c and the next 38c.

Port Fairy reached 38 degrees and after a walk around the cute town and part of an historical buildings trail, we were struggling with the heat. There was nothing for it but a dip in the sea to cool off... cue steam coming off our skin.

The video shop is not dead. Even the DVD sign written in a 1950s style.

Tower Hill reserve is set into the crater of a dormant volcano which last errupted 7,000 years ago. It's a lovely spot and great for wildlife spotting... when it's not blowing hot desert winds and feeling like an oven. We did see a couple of emus but nothing else and as we were continuing to melt, we drove around the reserve rather than tackle any walking.


Driving from the west, Warrnambool is the last main town before the Great Ocean Road. It's best known for whale watching in the winter months. We spotted an inviting cove for a dip... we didn't let its name 'Stingray Bay' put us off. Gulp.

The water was bloomin' freezing! Probably like Bournemouth's in the late spring/early summer but as the air temperature was so hot, it was really refreshing and such a respite from the heat.

With the heat also comes the flies, they'd been a pest for the last couple of days... at breakfast... lunch... dinner... basically any time we got out of the van... grrrrr. It's one major drawback in Australia in the heat.

Next instalment... The Great Ocean Road!

Posted by Galavantie 23:58 Archived in Australia Comments (0)

We've fallen a little bit in love... with Adelaide

sunny 29 °C

Adelaide. Delayed (as some Aussies call it). To some, it may seem like the poor relative or the wallflower of the party compared to Sydney's sparkling lights and harbour, or the perennial appeal of Melbourne. But in case you've never been to Adelaide, or haven't been for a while... Adelaide is growing up. Or 'getting with it' to coin another of my Dad's phrases.

In fact it's got very with it. It's all over it. Whatever 'it' is. Ha ha. In a nutshell the reasons we loved Adelaide... the surburbs we saw were full of character, it's a really manageable city, it's laidback, the food and local produce available is hard to beat, there are world class wineries on its doorstep, it has a surprising cool edge to it being the host city to a fringe festival (2nd only in size to Edinburgh's), it has beautiful university buildings, art galleries, tonnes of festivals... and it goes about all of this quietly and without fuss. It was almost love at first sight, and the deeper we delved the more we fell for it.

Our stay was in a surburb just a 10 minute tram ride out of the city and was annexe accommodation. Turns out we were our host's first guests so the place was brand new and pretty nice. Our host turned out to be on edge and slightly weird but we think that was more down to nervousness at her first b&b attempt.


We explored the city and quickly discovered it was playing host to the Tour Down Under (Oz equivalent to the Tour de France), so Ant was pretty made up to check out the Expo in the central square.

If Ant could choose his perfect seating...

Onto the Central Market which was established in 1869 and is the largest covered market of its kind in the southern hemisphere. Wow! It was such a great place... amazing stalls and cafes selling all manner of produce.


Victorian arcades are really well preserved in Australia and I remember being wowed by the ones in Melbourne on my first visit to Oz four and a half years ago. Adelaide also has a great example...


General shots of the city...

Great colonial pubs and hotels are dotted around the city


Another city, another art gallery? Oh yeah.... and the Art Gallery of South Australia didn't disappoint with a particularly good exhibition of Jain, Hindu and Muslim art called Paradise on Earth. Each gallery appeared to have been decorated to suit the exhibits in the room and the result was really stunning, with individual pieces set off so well in careful lighting.


To round off a pretty much perfect day, we took a 5 minute stroll from our home base to go to the Capri Theatre, a lovingly cared for art deco cinema in immaculate condition. There were only about 25 people at the showing and the film, Saving Mr Banks, was easy fayre with a great performance from Emma Thompson.

A step back in time!


Poor old Ant has lost out cricket wise. The one day internationals have been played in cities we're not in... wrong time, wrong place sort of thing. We were in Sydney for one of the Ashes days, but were staying quite far from the grounds... plus we were doing so badly, Ant wasn't sure he even wanted to see them get a stuffing!

Instead, he consoled himself with a tour of Adelaide's Oval, which is still going through a multi-million dollar rennovation. It's officially going to be opened in March when The Rolling Stones play here. It was a fascinating insight into a great stadium, which will also host the AFL (Aussie footie) following its refurb.

The ground's famous original scoreboard

Inside the scoreboard!

A quick wander through the city's botanical gardens before making our way back to have 'dinner' on the beach with our host and her boyfriend. Bit of an odd night... we were getting fish and chips but everything was shut so we ended up with filled bread rolls and cheese and crackers. We had nothing in common with either of them and I suspect they thought we were just as hard work as we thought they were!


So we'd already done a winery tour in Margaret River, but it has to be said, the one we were really looking forward to was McLaren Vale. Think punchy reds... particularly shiraz... mmm mmm! We had a brilliant (full!) day visiting a total of 6 wineries and tasting some gorgeous reds, up there with the best we've ever had. We treated ourselves to a couple of bottles to enjoy on our final road trip in Oz...

One of the wineries 'hosts' reminded me of a Paul Whitehouse character... he was dead straight and had an expressionless face but looked the spit of Mr Whitehouse... made me chuckle anyway... or was it just down to the 10th taster...?

Samuel's Gorge was wonderful, a really understated little place with gorgeous views


Our lunch stop, a converted train carriage

d'Arenburg vines

A roo sanctuary at Woodstock

Woodstock was our favourite for wines, we couldn't justify the 65 bucks for the wine we really wanted, but did buy one for $38 (around £20) which had such a deep intense smoky flavour, it was like sitting in an old gentleman's club breathing in the old leather and faint cigar smoke. Sounds a bit gross, but trust me, this wine was something else.

One of the team vans for the Tour Down Under, we didn't spot any recognisable riders

As it was a Friday night and the start of a long celebratory weekend for Australia Day, our host held a seafood party to which we were invited. In fact when we asked what the occasion was, she gave us the impression it was in the main because of our stay and she wanted to put something on for us. It wasn't a massive do, maybe 15 people, and the seafood was very good... platefuls of squid, abalone and crayfish, all caught that day by some of the guys there.

We spent most of the evening chatting to a fellow Brit, Lisa, also on her travels and from Manchester, so Ant knew all the places she talked about. Small world eh. Lisa was very endearing and a funny storyteller, but she also had a strange habit of telling a story then paraphrasing it straight after so you got all the main points twice.

The evening was ok but we were probably not in the right mood for a party having been tasting heavy reds all day....the worst thing was we crashed at midnight but the evening carried on right next to our room until the wee small hours. Fine if we were friends but as paying guests, it wasn't that appreciated! But overall, Adelaide has been a real highlight and the city has captured both of us.

Posted by Galavantie 13:41 Archived in Australia Comments (0)

Strewwwth, it's a coolie in the red centre!

Uluru, Kata Tjuta and King's Canyon

overcast 26 °C

Mad dogs and Englishmen... book a tour in the centre of Australia at the peak of their summer. But wait, what's this? Cloud, rain?! In the scorched red desert? Who'd've thunk it!

The fringes of a cyclone which had hit Darwin in the north with floods meant Alice Springs was unusually cool at just 26c (just a week earlier it had been 45-47c). So although it was gloomy it was also a bit of a blessing. Quite ironic really, because we considered not going to the centre due to extreme summer temperatures (and the millions of flies that this brings).

Alice Springs didn't make a great first impression. Arriving late afternoon and under grey clouds, it looked like a pretty sad, drab, scruffy place with a large indiginous population, some bogen locals and a tonne of graffitti. Our motel on the edge of town also looked a sorry site. We were only thankful we were here for such a short time before heading off on our camping tour. The 3 day tour covered the three main sights; Uluru, Kata Tjuta and King's Canyon.

We were up at 5am, cripes! Our guide, Simon, seemed friendly and the tour (max numbers - 21) only consisted of 7 people, result! There's no getting away from it, we're unsociable insular types who much prefer smaller groups!

Along the way from Alice Springs to Uluru we had a couple of photo stops, one being the imposing Mt Conner, which is actually larger than Uluru. I loved seeing glimpses of the rusty orange-red earth through gaps in the silvery-green grass clumps, as if the land was bleeding.

You have to jump if you're a backpacker, it's the law

No photo manipulation, it really is that red

We were excited to see the rock for the first time - there is a calm and serene feel to the area, and Uluru itself does feel pretty special. The cultural centre was interesting and provided information on the Anangu - the western desert people and custodians of this land - and Tjukurpa, their traditional law, which they live their life by.

The Government returned the land to the aboriginees in 1985 with a condition that they leased it back on a 99 year basis to be managed jointly between the Anangu and national park authorities. There was another condition - that was the public contined to be allowed to climb it - the government fearful that tourists would stop coming if they weren't able to. Although you can therefore still officially climb Uluru (via a steep incline with a chain), the wishes of the Anangu are that you do not. So we didn't.

As it wasn't blisteringly hot (at times we even had fleeces on!) we were able to complete a large section of the base walk - about 7 of the total 10k walk. Close up it's quite different to how you might imagine it. The surface is rough and almost flaky in parts. Underneath, the rock is actually grey and gets its red colour from the high iron ore content which oxidises when in contact with the environment. Effectively it's a bit rusty.

We thought this look a bit like an aboriginal profile!


Sadly the weather conditions didn't give us those iconic bright reds set off by a brilliant blue sky, so our photos of Uluru are a bit flat in the light we had.


We also weren't rewarded with a sunset nor a starry night sky to camp under which was a real shame. On the upshot, as it rained throughout the evening, our guide managed to secure us the laundry room in camp for us to sleep in our swags. Other groups tried to come in after we'd all gone to bed but had to sleep in partial cover outside... the early worm...

It wasn't the best night's sleep with noise from lots of other tour groups, and we'd found two redback spiders very close to our sleeping quarters just before we went to bed which set me on edge a bit. They don't kill you, but are considered one of Australia's deadliest spiders and deliver a powerful nerve poison which causes severe pain and some other unsavoury symptoms. Sweet dreams!

The redbacks were under the sinks... shudder!


We did, however, make it up for sunrise and although it wasn't a 'wow' one, it was still a pretty sky and a special moment. The photos don't really capture the oranges and purples that we saw.


Kata Tjuta
Also known as The Olgas, Kata Tjuta is a rocky formation created millions of years ago when two tectonic plates collided. Kata Tjuta means 'many heads' and, like Uluru, is a sacred place. We actually preferred walking around these to Uluru - the views were more far reaching and rewarding. Again, sadly the grey/white skies didn't do it justice but the 3 hour Valley of the Winds walk was really enjoyable. Enough flies to still warrant our fly nets, but with temps still only mid-late 20's they weren't insufferable.

Some of our group taking other group shots

Our small group... 'Simmo' our Aussie guide in the middle, between Ant and Daniel (German) on his left. Tomoni (Japanese), Amanda & Tamara (Dutch), Maya (Welsh) and me

Ha ha!

Kata Tjuta and Uluru in the same pic

Wild camels spotted... did you know Australia is the only country in the world to have a wild camel population?

Our base for the second night was Kings Creek Station. We were treated to a camp fire (after we'd collected the fire wood from the bush!) and a bbq with tender 'roo steaks. The camp was way better than the first night, we had it to ourselves and we all had beds within tents. It also felt like a much more authentic bush camping experience with more nature and dingoes howling in the distance.


Simon went scorpion spotting and came back with one really quickly. He saw three all within a minute's walk to the camp...! He also mentioned a couple of large centipedes which give a nasty bite, I spotted one on the way to the bathroom. Is there anything in this country not out to get you?!

Tatty on the outside but fine on the inside


Kings Canyon
Up at 4.30am! Lordy. This is more like boot camp! We were walking by 6am and had completed the entire canyon rim walk by 9.30am. Just in time for... errr... lunch then?

It was pretty good, the strata and colour of the rocks everywhere you looked made for some impressive landscapes. The terrain and rocks undulated all around from weather erosion. There were a couple of hang-over-the-edge opportunities which everyone took up except me due to my fear of heights. And yes, we were having lunch back at camp at 10.30am!

The people on the other side really give it some perspective

I could barely look...

The view they had

Not too many flies, but still pesky all the same

Then it was a long 5.5hr drive back to Alice Springs.

We drove through clouds of flying ants... we didn't see them at the time but they made for difficult visibility for Simon

It's art!


Despite getting probably the equivalent of one good night's sleep over the two nights and three very early starts, it was a fun trip with an excellent guide and a really nice small group.

And in the sunshine the next morning, the motel didn't look so bad afterall...


Posted by Galavantie 16:23 Archived in Australia Comments (0)

And so the south west loop of Australia concludes...

Oz road trip #2 - Southwest WA loop: Margaret River to Perth

sunny 26 °C

The last leg to what has already been a fantastic road trip... the last few hours between Margaret River and Perth.

Much of our stops centred around Cape Naturaliste and included the fabulous beaches of Bunker Bay and Eagle Bay. Both were beautiful but the latter was pretty special. Seems other people think so too and all the homes dotted on the headland go for a few million a piece.


Too bad we didn't have the time to go in for a swim!

We also checked out Busselton's jetty because it holds the acclaim of being the longest wooden-pile jetty the southern hemisphere, stretching just over 1 mile out to sea. We had a leisurely stroll with mahousive icecreams to the end and fleetingly spotted a small pod of dolphins along the way.

This was shortly after Megan contacted me about the 'work' word....


Back to my cousin's place which was a very welcome sight along with a friendly slobbery greeting from Otto! It was a treat to have a meal cooked for us again, along with a bottle of Margies red we'd purchased, and we enjoyed a final evening with family before the start of our next adventure.

Queensland gave us a few highlights, but our Western Australia loop has completely blown our first road trip out of the water. So much diversity... quaint unchanged-in-years towns, the golden outback and mining on a huge scale, staggering beaches with sand so white it's blinding, the bluest of seas, endless national parks and dense forests. And not forgetting 'roos on the beach!

So, so glad we put WA on the list, we loved it so much it's likely to be a clear favourite from our time down under. We will be back!

Posted by Galavantie 02:43 Archived in Australia Comments (0)

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